Buyans. Buyany Palace by mistake and a palace for beauty

On the banks of the Malaya Neva, an elegant building flaunts in a traditional yellow-white classic color (Dobrolyubova Ave., 14). People call it "Biron's Palace", and looking at it, it is easy to believe that this is really a palace - it looks so austere and imposing. However, in fact, this is not a palace, but a former hemp warehouse, known as Tuchkov Buyan.

Originally, this place was a wooden hemp warehouse, built in 1735. However, in 1761 they burned down and it was decided to build new warehouses from stone. The construction was started according to the project of the military engineer M. A. Dedenev (it was assumed that the warehouses would have one floor). But in 1764 A. Rinaldi created a new project of the complex ("in order to avoid unnecessary costs" it is consistent with the construction already begun):

The construction of the warehouses was completed in 1772.

In the center of the composition there is an important thing - the building where the hemp was weighed:

and on either side of it were two barn buildings

According to the initial project, they were supposed to have two floors, but during the construction, each of the floors was additionally divided into two floors, which gave the facades some fragmentation.

Unfortunately, some of the architectural and decorative elements of the building have been lost. If we take a look at the plan of the building, designed by Rinaldi, we can see that the important was crowned with an intricate completion with a statue, and the side parts were accented by attics that complete the facade.

Fortunately, the building has retained a wrought-iron balcony railing. True, I did not manage to get close to the building, so we can judge it from this 1948 measurement drawing:

In the 1910s, Tuchkov Buyan was under threat of demolition. In 1912, the St. Petersburg Society of Architects, with the participation of the City Duma, held a competition named after V.A. The competition program provided for the creation of a permanent exhibition complex here on an area of ​​almost 25 hectares. The complex was supposed to include a multifunctional exhibition building with an area of ​​up to 40,000 square meters, a congress building with several halls (including for 1000 and 500 people), a test station, a restaurant, a residential building for administration and employees, and a boiler room.
And in 1913, the City Duma returned to this issue again. A special commission under the Duma announced a closed competition, to which M. Kh. Dubinsky (the former winner of the previous competition), O. R. Munts and I. A. Fomin were invited to participate. The program of the competition was expanded and supplemented with the buildings of museums - the history of the city, improvement and urban economy, art industry - with a library, auditoriums, etc. However, with all the advantages of the program, its requirements did not include the preservation of Tuchkov Buyan, so each of the three architects solved this issue in different ways.
IA Fomin was the only one of all to set the task of keeping Tuchkov Buyan. He included the building in the planned complex and intended to house the Museum of the City in it:



And this is how the main building was supposed to look like in accordance with the project:



"On the sea-okiyane, on the Buyan island ..."- this is how Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin begins his "Tale of Tsar Saltan". The mysterious island excited the imagination of our Slavic ancestors and often appeared in their folklore. Meanwhile, Buyan Island can be safely found in St. Petersburg - in the center of the city, on the Malaya Neva. True, he has a "surname" - Tuchkov. Let's go virtually to this island and find out what's what.


A palace by mistake and a palace for beauty

The island in question was formed in the bed of the Malaya Neva relatively recently - after the flood of 1726. In the middle of the 18th century, he was already called the Tuchkov Buyan - by the name of the builder of the first bridge between the Vasilievsky and Petrogradsky Islands, Abraham Tuchkov, and the Buyan, perhaps according to grandmother's sayings: “I will get up, blessing, I will go, // crossing myself, under the eastern // side, to the okiyan-sea. // Buyan island is located in the Okiyan-sea ”. Although, of course, in the explanatory dictionaries there is a mention of the fact that Buyan is an outdated name for the place of unloading of ships, a river pier.


Among the people, Tuchkov's brawler was firmly called Biron's palace, although this complex of buildings has never been residential. Already in the 1730s, warehouses for hemp and flax - the main "export goods" of our country at that time, were located here. They were brought to the island for two very significant reasons. The first is this: hemp is an extremely flammable material, so its warehouses were taken away from urban development, and the second is that the main consumer of hemp ropes and ropes is the fleet, so it is very convenient to store it on the island in the riverbed of the Neva.


However, the warehouse buildings, surprisingly, do not look boring and dull business buildings: on the contrary, the architect Antonio Rinaldi and the military engineer Dyakov did everything possible to make their appearance worthy of the architectural ensemble of the city center. Huge yellow-white buildings, reminiscent of a mixture of Italian-Dutch architecture and therefore so elusively St. Petersburg, are, in fact, an important center (the most important place where goods were weighed) and two warehouse buildings on the sides.


At the time of Anna Ioannovna, there were all the same hemp warehouses here, only wooden. But the popular opinion that the huge palace of her favorite, Biron was located on Tuchkov Buyan, was so strong that at the beginning of the 20th century not only officials, but also many architects adhered to it, until the architect Ivan Fomin in the magazine "Old Years" refuted him (1908).

Olympics could have been here

At the beginning of the 20th century, the territory of Tuchkov Buyan became larger: the channels between it, neighboring unnamed islets, where the City Nursery of Ornamental Plants were located, and Petrogradsky Island were filled up (in the middle of the century, the former Vatny Island was included here). The ideas for a new use of Tuchkov Buyan began to grow like mushrooms after the rain: the bicentennial of St. Petersburg was approaching and passed, which also could not but affect the pace of the emergence of projects. So, it was proposed to set up a city museum, an archive, an exhibition art center (the idea of ​​Ilya Efimovich Repin) and even a public sports center, which could claim to host the first Olympics in the empire. In the 1910s, two architectural competitions were held, most of whose participants, with the exception of Ivan Fomin, proposed to completely demolish "... just a barn, which only by chance, or maybe counting on a very distant viewer, was given the appearance of a palace"(architect Munz). However, the war and the revolution forced Tuchkov Buyan to abandon any plans for public improvement.


And the artists are against!

The historical color of Tuchkov Buyan's buildings, which, fortunately, is still yellow. However, in 1904, when the need arose to renew the color, a threat loomed over the historical color and it came ... from the painters of the Academy of Arts who worked in the workshops on Tuchkova embankment. Mikhail Petrovich Klodt, son of the famous author of the horses of the Anichkov Bridge, Arkhip Ivanovich Kuindzhi, and others made an insistent proposal “To paint it not yellow, but gray, since it interferes too much with its yellow color and gives a yellow reflex to our art workshops, which is inconvenient for painting ...”.

Blue mayonnaise and judges' island

After the revolution, Tuchkov the brawler became even more mysterious and brutal. In 1919, on Tuchkov Buyan, or rather, on the territory of the former vodka warehouses of Vatny Island, the State Institute of Applied Chemistry (GIPH) was located, where modern alchemists experimented in both military and civilian areas - there is a version that in the laboratories of the Institute created food products of unusual colors, including blue mayonnaise. In 1995, boys in military uniforms - the Peter the Great Military Space Cadet Corps - appeared directly "in Biron's palace".


The new, XXI century has brought even more radical changes. The GIPH moved to the Leningrad Region (its buildings, including those of the 19th century, were demolished), and the cadets moved to Peterhof. It was planned to build first an elite residential complex on the island, then the building of the Supreme Court of the Russian Federation and at the same time revive the old ideas of a social and cultural center on a fabulous island, placing there the Boris Eifman Dance Palace, a park zone. Today, the question of the exact fate of such a historical district of St. Petersburg as Tuchkov Buyan remains open. Wait and see.


The skiffs drew water, and the seagulls
Maritimes visited the hemp warehouse,
Where, selling sbiten or cakes,
Only opera men wander about.

Osip Mandelstam, St. Petersburg stanzas.

Hemp warehouses on Tuchkov Buyan classicism

1772 - architect. Rinaldi Antonio

Memory. arch. (Feder)

Now the building belongs to

The Peter the Great Military Space Cadet Corps.

Tuchkov Buyan, as D. A. Kucharianz points out, "arose on the Malaya Neva after the flood of 1726". At that time it was simply called Buyan, and then Penkovy Buyan, and acquired its modern name when a wooden pontoon bridge was built near it across the Malaya Neva, the builder of which was the contractor Tuchkov.

In 1735, wooden warehouses for hemp were built, from which ship ropes were made at that time. The location of the warehouse on the island was convenient in terms of fire safety. But in 1761 the warehouses burned down. In 1763, a military engineer A. A. Dyakov began construction of a stone building in their place, designed by A. A. Dedenev. This project was completely revised in 1764 by A. Rinaldi. The construction was completed in 1772.

On the sides of the central two-storey building, the important (rooms for weighing hemp) are symmetrically located rectangular barn buildings. According to the initial project, they were supposed to be two-story. However, during the construction process, each of the floors, for purely utilitarian purposes, was additionally divided into two lower floors. The barns are connected to the most important covered galleries. The complex also included a chauffeur's building, which was intended for bulkheads of flax and hemp, hidden behind an extended Neva facade. Inside, the warehouses are divided into sections by capital walls. The pillars in the center of these sections support the arches and cross vaults. The balcony is decorated with a wrought iron grating, made in 1772 according to the design of Rinaldi.

At what point and why the building was called “Biron's palace” is unknown. This name appears in official documents up to the beginning of the 20th century. In 1908, while preparing the Historical Exhibition, I.A.Fomin found drawings of hemp barns, and the "romantic" version of Buyan's story was refuted in the article "The Imaginary Palace of Biron": "From the signatures on the drawing it is clear that the building was specially built for hemp barns , chauffeur and important ... and, therefore, there has never been a “Biron's Palace” ”.

    On the left side you can see
    chauffeur building

    From the book of G.K. Lukomsky
    "Old Petersburg"

    From the book of G.K.
    Lukomsky
    "Old
    Petersburg "

    The magazine "Architect" 1907, № 45

    A. P. Ostroumova-Lebedeva
    "Biron's Palace" 1916

    Ivanov-Blue. Tuchkov's view
    bridge with surroundings

    Project I.A.Fomin 1913

    I. A. Fomin project

    Schubert's plan. 1828.

    Fragment of the "Plan
    SPb 1882

    Fragment of the map
    1913 g.

    Fragment of the map
    1956 g.

    From the book: "The Lattices of Leningrad
    and its surroundings.
    "Hermont G.N. 1938
    Added -.

* Traverse Baltazar de la 1780s Tuchkov Buyan in St. Petersburg = Paper, watercolor 27.1x51.5 = Collection of I.S. Silberstein, Moscow

In 1902-1905. the city expanded the dam of the Tuchkov Bridge, connecting the Tuchkov Buyan with the Petrogradsky Island. In 1908 the Emperor approved the second official project for the expansion of Petrograd Island. By 1911, the channels between the Tuchkov Buyan, the islets adjoining it from the east, and the Petrogradsky Island were filled up.Only Vatny Island remained isolated, with the warehouse of the Main Directorate of unreported fees and state sale of pityas located on it. During this period, the building was still used for its original purpose - as warehouses. In addition, part of the documents of the city archive was transferred to the important building.

In the 1910s. Tuchkov the brawler was under the threat of demolition. In 1912, the St. Petersburg Society of Architects, with the participation of the City Duma, held a competition for the development of Tuchkov Buyan's territory with buildings for exhibitions and conventions. The competition program provided for the creation of a permanent exhibition complex here on an area of ​​almost 25 hectares. In 1913 the City Duma returned to this issue again. The program of the competition was expanded and supplemented with the buildings of museums - the history of the city, the improvement and urban economy, the art industry. The requirements of the program did not include the preservation of Tuchkov Buyan. IA Fomin was the only one to set the task of keeping Tuchkov Buyan. He included the building in the planned complex and intended to house the Museum of the City in it. Oskar Munz is said to have remarked: "This is just a barn" ...

In 1931-1938. according to the project of engineer Borovik, the left building was reconstructed in connection with its adaptation for the State Research Institute of High Pressure. 1945-1948 made the reconstruction of the right building, which housed the River School.

In 1967 the buildings were included in the sports complex of the Small Indoor Arena (?). Now it houses the Military Space Cadet Corps.

They also returned to the arrangement of a walking area on this territory in Soviet times, but it did not work out either. The widely discussed project for the construction of the "Embankment of Europe" also seems to be hanging in the air.

This mysterious building, called Biron's palace, was built in 1762 for warehouses, perhaps on the site of some of the buildings of Biron's time. Its dimensions, the location of the stairs and the breakdown of the facade indicate the hand of a great master. The side wings are probably built on. The location of the stairs and the passages on the arches to the middle wing are strikingly picturesque, and it is a pity if they are destroyed, as they destroyed the Malaya Neva channel, which surrounded the building, which, like a gloomy castle, rose on the island.

(Kurbatov V. 1913 Petersburg. Artistic-historical sketch and review of the artistic wealth of the capital, (Transitional era of A. Rinaldi))

Tuchkov is a brawler. The so-called Bironovsky Palace was built for hemp warehouses according to the project of Rinaldi on an island in the middle of the river. Now, unfortunately, numerous canals along the river have been filled up, and they want to destroy the building itself, meanwhile, not only is its position on the island extremely picturesque, but most importantly, its middle part is very beautiful - "important".

(Kurbatov V. 1913 Petersburg. Artistic and historical sketch and review of the artistic wealth of the capital,

(Review of the artistic heritage of St. Petersburg. Dry land. Alexandrovsky prospect)

1933: State Institute of High Pressures; 527th registered cash register at the Experimental Plant of Applied Chemistry, Vatny Island, 2. ("All Leningrad - 1933". Pp. 279, 434)

Federal monument. "Tuchkov Buyan" (hemp warehouses) 1763-1772, arch. Rinaldi A., engineer Dedenev M.A., engineer Dyakov A.A .; 1931-1933 Bolshoy prospect P.S., building 1a, letter A Resolution of the Government of the Russian Federation No. 527 of 10.07.2001

On the history of the territory between the Birzhev and Tuchkov bridges (on the Malaya Neva, on the site of the GIPH, where is it planned - or not already? - the creation of the Embankment of Europe, the court quarter, the theater of modern ballet, etc.)
Unique archival photographs, curious facts.
A very exciting excursion.

Original taken from kavery to Mysterious Cotton Island

Today I invite you on a tour of the places where my childhood passed. So while I was doing this post, I remembered a lot of personal things. But this time she did not hammer the post with subjective things, but tried to collect various historical facts about the history of this place. I managed to find a lot of pretty unique photos. I hope you find it interesting.

Talking about the project of a music hall in St. Petersburg at the beginning of the 20th century (http://kavery.livejournal.com/2632668.html), I mentioned Vatny Island. Oddly enough, before searching for materials for that post, I had never heard of this island. “Oddly enough,” I say because half of my life I lived practically in the neighborhood with him, more precisely, in the neighborhood of the place that was once Vatny Island. It ceased to exist, as they say, before the Great Patriotic War, but I could not find a more exact date. Different sources name different years. Old-timers sometimes called this place so even after it ceased to exist.
Actually, I did not come across as many references to Vatny Island itself as I would like. Who will write about the tiny island formed by one of the arms of the Neva?
But I managed to find something interesting about the island and about this area, which I will share with you.
Vatny Island was located right behind the place where the Exchange Bridge now passes. There were several other small islands next to it, which were adjacent to Petrogradsky Island. All these islets existed even before the founding of St. Petersburg, they can be seen on maps of different years. (See below). However, cartographers do not give the exact outlines. Even the position and number of islands is somewhat different.
I did not find the etymology of the name, but my friend had a version that if the nearby island where Tuchkov Buyan was located was also called Penkov, because of the hemp warehouses, then it is possible that this island also had warehouses of some kind of cotton wool. For the first time the name "Cotton Island" appears on the plan of the Military Topographic Bureau in 1858-1860. Before that, it was called Dutch. (Inf. Http://www.archi.ru/files/publications/diplomas/bass/c2_1.htm)

Map of the area where St. Petersburg will be located later. This island already exists. (I marked it with a red dot)

The year is 1720.

19th century map.


1909 year

Further, there are three fragments of maps that I found on the site http://www.etomesto.ru/
I made screenshots of map fragments.
First, the 1915 map, as we can see, on it both Vatny Island and Tuchkov Buyan are still separate islands.


But on this map it is already clear that Tuchkov Buyan merged with Petrogradsky Island. Wadden Island still existed.

Fast forward to pre-war 1940

1940 Wadden Island is still in place.


For obvious reasons, wartime maps are a rarity, alas. On the German map of 1941, Vatny Island is still listed. However, they might have a slightly outdated map.
The earliest map that I was able to find from the following years is a map of 1947. And we see that although the name of the island is present on it, the channel itself has already disappeared. So, most likely, the name of the territory was simply preserved, and the island was no longer there. Therefore, it can be assumed, as I wrote above, that the island disappeared before the war. (In the war and the first post-war years, there were hardly any forces and funds to fill the canal. There were more important things to do. (IMHO))

But get it over with the cards, I suspect for most of them learning the cards is pretty boring.
Let's turn to the history of this area.
In 1860, a prospect was laid along the channel, in 1871 it was named Aleksandrovsky and was renamed under Soviet rule into Dobrolyubov Avenue. The alley - the future Aleksandrovsky Prospect - is already marked on the plan of the Military Topographic Bureau in 1858-1860. But what happened here until the middle of the 19th century?
The area behind the Mytny Dvor (the place where myt was collected, that is, the duty for transporting goods) was called “ Mokrushi ". Mytny Dvor was located on the embankment, which he gave the name - Mytninskaya.

In the same first encyclopedia of metropolitan life (AI Bogdanov. "Description of St. Petersburg. 1749-1751) Bogdanov also describes the settlement that developed" below Mytny Dvor, on the banks of the Neva River. " It was called "Mokrusha tract", since the local low banks were flooded with any more or less flood. The local parish church - the predecessor of the Prince Vladimir Cathedral - was popularly called Nikola Mokry. Although officially it was dedicated to the Dormition of the Most Holy Theotokos, they began to call him Nikolsky by the chapel in honor of Nicholas the Wonderworker, which was consecrated earlier than the main altar. And the streets around the church were called Bolshie and Maly Nikolsky (now Blokhin and Yablochkov). And along the highway of Dobrolyubov Avenue was Nikolskaya Naberezhnaya Street. The windows of the houses looked into the waters of the Nikolskaya River - the arms of the Neva (http://kn.sobaka.ru/n96/01.html)


Until Soviet times, the only real attraction in this area was the temple. I will step back a little from the topic of the island and say a few words about it.
The first temple began to be built in 1713. It was made of wood.
In 1740, by order of Empress Anna Ioannovna, a stone church was laid next to the wooden Assumption Cathedral "on Mokrusha". Architect P.-A. Trezzini designed it with one dome, modeled on the Cathedral of the Peter and Paul Fortress. In the second year of construction, a palace coup took place, which brought Empress Elizabeth Petrovna to the throne. The building was brought under the vaults, but further funding for the work was stopped. The poor parish itself was content with its old church and could not bear the costs of building a stone cathedral with a capacity of 3,000 people. Only in 1747, "Petrov's daughter" ordered to begin its completion, and with a change in the completion to a five-domed "like in Moscow at the Assumption Cathedral"... http://www.vladimirskysobor.ru/istorija-sobora/
But only later, in 1766, a stone building began to be built on this site.


This is how he is depicted on the map.
Fragment of the "Plan of the capital city of St. Petersburg"
1753 The unfinished Assumption Cathedral is depicted on it as if it had been built according to the original project of 1740. The Nikolskaya River flowed near the walls of the cathedral, along the route of the present Dobrolyubov Avenue.


Why the name of the cathedral was changed can be found here http://family-history.ru/temples/temples_51.html. The story is interesting, but a little off the topic of my story.

Drawing by Quarenghi depicting the cathedral. It is clearly seen that there is a reservoir in front of the cathedral. This is the same Nikolskaya river. (Late 18th century)



Prince Vladimir Cathedral, St. Petersburg,
A.G. Vickers, 1833
The picture shows a river flowing past the cathedral. It can be seen that the water comes almost to the walls of the temple.



So, we looked at the cathedral, found out that in honor of its limit, the river was called Nikolskaya. And they even saw her images in the drawings of the 18th century. This one is important because there are few places where this name sounds. More often it is simply called "some kind of river" without mentioning the name.

Now let's return to the main character of the story - Vatny Island.
In 1880, by order of Emperor Alexander II, a project was developed to unite the islands with the Petrogradsky Island. Residential quarters were to appear in place of the islands. However, the project never came to fruition.
From the very beginning, warehouses were located on the island. In 1896-1897, according to the project of R.R.Marfeld, several brick buildings were built, which housed state-owned wine warehouses and a distillery. A number of photographs have survived from the time where these buildings can be seen.


Wadded island. Construction of the second state-owned wine warehouse.


View of Vatny Island.


Facade of a warehouse building.


Arrow V.O.
On the left side there is a view of Vatny Island and the buildings of wine warehouses.


Another view from the Strelka of V.O.



A rare frame. Transportation of ice across the Neva.

The First World War showed that chemistry, unfortunately, will play one of the leading roles in military affairs. This was one of the reasons why in 1919 the Russian Institute of Applied Chemistry (RIPKh) was founded, which was renamed in 1925 into GIPKh. (State Institute of Applied Chemistry). In 1919, the building of the former wine warehouses was transferred to this institute.
http://www.giph.su/ru/history Anyone interested can read about the institute in detail at this link.

Unique frame


View of the wine warehouses from the side of Dobrolyubov Avenue. In some sources, the photos are dated to about the 30s of the 20th century. This is almost the very beginning of the island, judging by the buildings that are visible in the background beyond the Neva. Almost the only photo that I managed to get hold of wine on the channel.

The shot was taken in 1924 on Dobrolyubov Avenue. The Red Army soldiers guard the belongings of flood victims. Although water is visible in the background, this is not a channel, but the remnants of water after the flood, but the Red Army men themselves are standing on the bank of the river. It is a pity that she herself is not visible.

Shooting time - 30s. Here, firstly, part of the buildings is visible, and secondly, it is clear that the water washes over this territory.

I have seen this frame before, even in LJ I had it. But due to the location of the bridge. But I did not pay attention to the river.

In the late 50s, the Builders' Bridge was rebuilt and its direction changed. This became possible precisely because the duct was filled up.

This is 1947. Restoration and reconstruction of the bridge and columns after the war. It is a pity that the photo is not clear. It can be seen that the water flows farther on the left side than it is now. But it seems to me that here you can see that there is a dead end for the water. The passage is buried. Or not?


On the site where I found this frame (http://oldsp.ru/), it is dated 1957. It can be seen that the island's cape is already connected almost to the Mytninskaya embankment, although I have a feeling that there is still a small channel there. Or is it not 1957?


Builder Bridge Rebuild: Temporary Bypass Bridge.


Construction of a new bridge. The construction is going on in the place where water splashed just recently. Cape Vatny Island is fully connected to the embankment.

And here is the new bridge. The old one is still in use. As we can see, the new Builders' Bridge abuts just at the place where the channel that washed the island's promontory used to be.

A few words about GIPH. Later, new buildings of the institute were built on the site of the channel. They were nothing interesting.

View from the Yubileiny. Recent photo.



In the process of demolition.

I will say a few words on my own about GIPH. The fact is that this institute was the head of my school, it was a school with an in-depth study of chemistry. (And it still remains so). The Institute has created an excellent laboratory for the study of analytical chemistry in our school. So we all left school with a diploma as a laboratory analyst. Unfortunately, I was not able to go on an excursion around the institute, although, of course, they showed the student only the front side, but it would be interesting to see this too. The institute was mostly engaged in military research. There were always a lot of rumors about him. Probably some of them are fairy tales and horror stories, but the place was at least unsafe in terms of radiation, etc. After all, the developments there were carried out not in theory, but in practice. So the area requires good decontamination from all chemicals.
By the way, since our school was in a pre-emergency state and it was impossible to arrange dancing, my graduation ceremony took place in the building of the GIPKhA. Just in the front building with a mosaic. During the perestroika times, there was also a polling station in our district.

I can't say that I was somehow especially fond of this place. I didn't even take a picture, although I often walked there. The only thing I'm sorry about is the mosaic that adorned the case. But I found this note:
The project of a stele with a mosaic that adorned the recently demolished Institute of Applied Chemistry at 14 Dobrolyubova Avenue was announced. It will be installed on a stele in a closed area in Kapitolovo.
The mosaic had to be transported due to the demolition of the GIPH buildings at 14 Dobrolyubova Avenue, for the construction of the residential complex "Naberezhnaya Evropy".
The mosaic decorated the main building of the institute, facing Dobrolyubov Avenue. It depicts a Soviet chemist, intently peering into the distance. It is captured against the background of the periodic table. A test tube is clutched in his hand.
The mosaic was dismantled by workers of the general contractor JSC Metrostroy. They transported it to the new site of the Russian scientific center "Applied Chemistry" (as it is now called GIPH) in Kapitolovo, Vsevolozhsk District, Leningrad Region.
As Natalia Zubritskaya, First Deputy Director for Science and Production of Applied Chemistry, said in response to Karpovka's inquiry, it was decided to keep the “Chemist” mosaic panel as a symbol of the institute and as a typical example of architectural decor of the 1960s – 1970s. It will be installed on a freestanding concrete stele lined with granite. She will stand in a closed area. So those who want to see the mosaic will have to apply for a permit.

http://karpovka.net/2012/08/03/54656/
This made me very happy. Even if I don't see it, it will be preserved for history.

A few more words about this area. In 1967, the Yubileiny Sports Palace was built opposite the cathedral. Earlier on this place since the tsarist times there was a nursery for trees and flowers. Mom told me about him. She still found him when she settled in the area. If you look at the photo of the flood, which I gave above, then the greenhouses of this nursery are just visible there. No other documentary photographic evidence has yet been found.


Tuchkov is a brawler in St. Petersburg. 1780s Collection of I.S. Silberstein. Artist Jean Baltazar de la Travers, who painted watercolors in 1780 by order of Count Stroganov.

I came across a plan for the reconstruction of this entire area into a park. This project was published in the book by N.V. Baranov "Architecture and Construction of Leningrad" 1948 (found here: http://olgrs.livejournal.com/2469.html)


It is interesting that the Builders' Bridge is already depicted in its present position. It is a pity that the idea of ​​the park did not come true. The view of the Neva would be beautiful.

As I understand it, the ideas of improving the territory of these islands have been in the air since the end of the 19th century, i.e. from the moment when the Petrogradskaya side became a prestigious area. Industrial buildings in the vicinity of a residential area were an atavism. The view from the embankment was too good. It was not just that they thought to build, for example, a concert hall, the story of the project of which I already mentioned at the beginning.
It has always been a strange idea for me to locate such a rather dangerous production as GIPH in the middle of the city, so I fully approve of its transfer from here. Although the brick buildings are a pity, they could somehow improve and leave them.

And in conclusion about the river.
The Nikolskaya River passed into the Zhdanovka River.
Here is a picture depicting p. Zhdanovka. The picture shows that it does not bend to the right, bending around the place where the Petrovsky stadium is now located, but flows straight. In the distance you can see the Prince Vladimir Cathedral.


Shchedrin S.F. View from Petrovsky Island in St. Petersburg. 1816. RM.

Two descriptions of this painting: The first belongs to the famous art critic, curator of the Hermitage Andrei Ivanovich Somov: “Behind the bridge, from behind the trees, you can see the building of the current second gymnasium. To the right is the Zhdanovka River, and behind it is the Penkovy Buyan and part of the Palace Embankment. " (Somov A.I. Catalog of the picture gallery of the Imperial Academy of Arts. St. Petersburg, 1872, p. 40). What does the second gymnasium have to do with it - it is not clear.

The second description is more plausible and detailed: “The view from Petrovsky Island in the Neva delta is presented. To the left is a portico and, apparently, a wood-burning yard of the Second Cadet Corps, behind it is the bell tower of the Vladimir Cathedral. In the foreground is the Zhdanovka River with a bridge over it. The bank, reinforced with piles, turns into Tuchkov Bridge. On the right is the building of the Penkovy Buyan, in the distance you can see the roofs of the Stock Exchange and the Winter Palace ”. (State Russian Museum. Painting. First half of the XIX century. Catalog (K - Z). SPb., 2007).
http://history-of-art.livejournal.com/648585.html
Please note that Somov calls the river Zhdanovka in 1872. Those. it got its name not in honor of a Soviet party leader, as many think. I came across information that somewhere there lived merchants with such a surname. But this information has not been verified.
This concludes my short story about Vatny Island and its neighbors.

The vast quarter, to which Vatny Island was also planned to be annexed, was to become a museum and exhibition complex; this project did not take place due to the outbreak of the First World War. Nowadays (2014) in the western part of Tuchkov Buyan, near the historic hemp warehouses, there are the Yubileiny sports complex and the Sportivnaya metro station. The eastern part is a large construction site - here, on the site of the demolished buildings, the construction of the administrative quarter of the Supreme Court is planned.

Tuchkov hemp brawler

An island in the bed of the Malaya Neva, later called the Tuchkov Buyan, arose after the flood of 1726. Soon a pier was built on the island, and in 1735 hemp warehouses were built. In the middle of the 18th century, the area got its name from Abraham Tuchkov, the builder of the first bridge that connected Vasilievsky Island with Petrogradsky Island. On June 29, 1761, the wooden buildings of the times of Anna Ioannovna burned down, and in 1763-1772 the military engineer A.A. In the same years, in the immediate vicinity of the Buyan, Dyakov built the Prince Vladimir Cathedral according to the design of Rinaldi.

The front of the Buyan, facing Vasilievsky Island, is strictly symmetrical. In the center is a compact two-story volume of an important (weighing office), to the left and right of it are four-story warehouse buildings, connected to the most important covered galleries. According to the project, the warehouses were two-story; only during construction, each of the projected floors was divided into two. From the north, from the side of Petrogradsky Island, the now lost two-storey, squat building of the chauffeur - premises for the bulkhead of flax and hemp - adjoined importantly.

The Brawler's building is painted yellow. A curious episode of 1904 is associated with it: the artists who worked in the workshops of the Academy on Tuchkova embankment actively protested against painting the dilapidated brawler. AI Kuindzhi, MP Klodt and others suggested "to paint it not yellow, but gray, since it interferes with us too much with its yellow color and gives a yellow reflex to our art workshops, which is inconvenient for painting ..." ...

Until the revolutions of 1917, the brawler was under the jurisdiction of the port services (at first imperial, in the 20th century urban) and was used for its intended purpose as a warehouse, however, among the people and among architects and city officials, the erroneous name "Biron's palace" was assigned to it. Only in 1908, IA Fomin, relying on the opinion of LN Benois and GI Kotov, refuted the legend in "Old Years". Fomin mistakenly dated the building to the era of Anna Ioannovna; this misconception was refuted in the 1910s.

Expansion of the territory

Until the end of the 19th century, the chain of islands between the Tuchkov Buyan and the Birzhevoy Bridge had not been settled; the outlines of the islets on the maps of the XVIII-XIX were constantly changing, the territory of Vatny Island took shape only by 1858. The coastline of Petrogradsky Island had a natural, irregular appearance. The swampy area to the north of it was named Mokrushi. Here, in the 1840s, Aleksandrovsky and Petrovsky parks were laid out, and in the 1860s, Aleksandrovsky Avenue (now Dobrolyubova Avenue) was laid along the bank of the channel. In the next decade, active development of Mokrush began on the northern side of the avenue, in 1880 Alexander II approved a plan to unite small islands with Petrogradsky Island. In the new urban area, south of Aleksandrovsky Prospekt, four regular-shaped blocks were to appear.

The 1880 project was not implemented. On three islets near Tuchkov Buyan, a city nursery of ornamental plants was located, on Vatny Island in 1896-1897, according to the project of RR Marfeld, the "red barns" of a state wine warehouse and a vodka factory were built. V. Ya. Kurbatov, who considered the green islets on the Malaya Neva "one of the most pleasant places in St. Petersburg", wrote that their "view ... was spoiled by the wooden Exchange Bridge and the winery." In 1902-1905, the city expanded the dam of the Tuchkov Bridge, reliably connecting Tuchkov Buyan with Petrogradsky Island; in 1908, Nicholas II approved the second official project for the expansion of Petrogradsky Island. By 1911, the channels between the Tuchkov Buyan, the islets adjoining it from the east, and the Petrogradsky Island were filled up; only Vatny Island remained isolated - the "fortress" of the state wine monopoly. On the maps of the First World War, the entire new territory of Petrogradsky Island is occupied by the city nursery; active development began here only in the middle of the 20th century.

Conversion projects

At the beginning of the 20th century, in the south of the Petrograd side, a new cultural center of the city was formed, focused on the masses. Until 1897, the first St. Petersburg Zoo operated on the territory of the Alexander Park, in 1899-1900 the first stage of the People's House was built. In Petrovsky Park, which has been at the disposal of the sobriety society since 1899, a theater, carousels and a boat station were built. It is no coincidence that the new territories located between the Aleksandrovsky and Petrovsky parks were considered as a public, nationwide space.

In preparation for the celebration of the bicentennial of St. Petersburg, proposals were repeatedly made to arrange a city museum in the "Biron's palace". In 1904, S. A. Tarasov suggested placing the city archive in it. In 1905, I.R. Tarkhanov proposed to set up a social and sports center, in 1906 I.E.Repin asked to transfer the building of the brawler for a permanent art exhibition. Then, as the channel was backfilled and the territory expanded, the city authorities and the public took up projects to equip the "new" Tuchkov Buyan - from Tuchkov to Birzhevoy Bridge. The fate of the "old" brawler, built by Dyakov and Rinaldi, only had to be decided: the city was seriously considering the possibility of its demolition in order to build a new museum and exhibition complex. Disputes about the demolition or preservation of the brawler continued until at least 1915.

Active research in new territories began at the turn of 1911-1912 in connection with plans to hold two All-Russian exhibitions in St. Petersburg. In 1912, the St. Petersburg Society of Architects, on behalf of the city authorities, held the first open competition for the projects of the exhibition complex; according to its terms, "Biron's palace" should have been preserved and adapted for a museum. In 1913, a second, closed competition took place between the projects of M. Kh.Dubinsky (winner of the competition in 1912), O. R. Munts and I. A. Fomin. This time, the architects were given the right to independently decide the fate of the brawler, up to and including its complete demolition. Fomin preserved the main facade of the Buyan in his project, Dubinsky and Munts decided to completely get rid of it. Muntz wrote that the building is completely unsuitable for a museum, its reconstruction is not justified, and the artistic value is exaggerated: “This is just a barn, which was given the appearance of a palace only by chance, or perhaps counting on a very distant viewer. The building was built very solidly, but rough in detail ... ”.

With the outbreak of the First World War, it became impossible to hold All-Russian exhibitions, but the city continued to search for planning solutions. However, by 1915, the opinion of the architectural department turned towards the preservation of historical buildings. F.I. Lidval, A.E.Belogrud and others proposed to completely abandon the public center on the Tuchkov Buyan, moving it to the west, to Petrovsky Island. It is this approach that has been implemented since the construction of the stadium in the 1920s.

Modernity

Since 1919, it has been housed in the buildings of the former vodka warehouses of Vatny Island. No later than 1942, the canal between Vatny and Petrogradsky Islands was filled up; the territory of the city nursery on the even side of Dobrolyubov Avenue remained undeveloped for a long time. The pre-war plans for the demolition of industrial buildings and the breakdown of the "green ray" along Dobrolyubov Avenue did not materialize. In 1958-1960, new concrete buildings of the institute were built in the eastern part of the former nursery; in the western part there appeared the Yubileiny sports complex (1967) and the Sportivnaya metro station (1997).

The historical complex of Vatny Island was recognized as a cultural heritage site only in 2001. By that time, the fenced and abandoned territory of the institute came under the control of VTB, which was planning to build a residential complex "Naberezhnaya Evropy" on it. According to the project of E. L. Gerasimov (2009), the palace of B. Ya. Eifman was to be located in the center of the territory, along Dobrolyubov Avenue; around it and along the new embankment of the Malaya Neva, eight-story residential buildings were densely located. The buildings of Vatny Island lost their protection status, in 2009-2011 the institute was evicted to Kapitolovo, and in 2011-2012 all buildings of the 1890s and 1950s were demolished. The development of the pit and the removal of contaminated soil to Krasny Bor began. The cadet corps, which occupied the buildings of the hemp brawler, was closed, its pupils were taken to Peterhof.

In 2012, with the decision to transfer the Supreme Court of the Russian Federation to St. Petersburg, the development plans changed significantly. According to the project of M. B. Atayants (2013), who won the competition for architectural and planning concepts in early 2014, all new buildings will be administrative. The historic building of Tuchkov Buyan will house the hospital of the Supreme Court. The lost corps of his chauffeur will be restored; between the building of the Eifman Palace and the embankment there will be a park area open to the river. The opinions of the architectural community about the new project were divided. Critics acknowledge its superiority over the unanimously condemned project of Evgeny Gerasimov, but believe that from an urban planning point of view, the space between the spit of Vasilyevsky Island, the Peter and Paul Fortress and the Vladimir Cathedral should not be built up at all.

In February 2016, it became known that the Presidential Property Management Department refused to implement the project that won the competition. Instead of Maxim Atayants, Evgeny Gerasimov was appointed the architect of the court quarter, whose project in 2013 did not receive any of the jury's votes, and the general contractor was Saturn OJSC, which specializes in special communication systems. A residential complex for 600 apartments for judges and employees of the Supreme Court staff was returned to the construction plan, although during the competition, Governor Georgy Poltavchenko said that the city government supports the idea of ​​transferring office housing to another part of the city in order to increase public space. The city committee for urban planning and architecture said that "the projects will still be evaluated, and everyone who participated in the creative competition will be considered on an equal footing."

Notes (edit)

  1. Big explanatory dictionary / ed. S. A. Kuznetsov. - Norint, 2008 .-- ISBN 5-7711-015-3.
  2. Tuchkov Buyan (hemp warehouses) (unspecified) ... FSUE GIVTs Ministry of Culture of Russia. Date of treatment June 29, 2014.
  3. , with. 317.
  4. , with. 321.
  5. , with. 319.
  6. , with. 318.
  7. , with. 318-319.
  8. Lushcheko, E. S. The second state-owned wine warehouse // Addresses of St. Petersburg. - 2006. - No. 24/36.
  9. , with. 319, 320.