Efficiency of connecting heating radiators. How to connect a heating battery with high quality for many years. Two types of heating systems

Depending on the layout, the area of the apartment, the method of supplying the coolant and other parameters, the methods of connecting the heating devices may differ. Moreover, these differences are quite significant and significantly affect the final heat transfer of the entire system. With unsuccessful installation, thermal energy leaks can reach up to 30 percent, and the consumer will eventually pay for the heat that he does not receive. That is why you should not rely on the advice of neighbors and acquaintances in providing heat to your home, it is advisable to independently understand all the nuances of such work or entrust it to specialists.

Factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system

Before proceeding with the design of the system, the purchase of batteries and the necessary consumables, you need to consider the nuances that will greatly affect the choice of one or another solution and will help you to correctly connect the radiators.

1. The number and location of risers from the main central heating.
2. Location, size and number of heating devices in the apartment.
3. Connection method, on which the final number of purchased pipes and fittings will depend upon installation.

A variety of radiators, usually aluminum, differing in many parameters, confuses even a sophisticated buyer. Therefore, in the matter of choice, it is necessary to adhere to some fundamental rules. Firstly, the connection method will depend on what kind of coolant supply scheme is used in the owner's house. If each riser has only one pipe, then the connection will definitely be one-pipe. If there are two pipelines available, then it is in the owner's power to connect according to both one-pipe and two-pipe schemes.

The second thing you need to pay attention to is the location of the outlet of the holes in the radiator. The overwhelming majority of used devices have their lateral location. If the apartment is planned to implement a certain design solution, which can be visually damaged by a little aesthetic conclusions on the side of the heater, then it would be rational to purchase batteries with a bottom connection. In this case, the pipelines can be hidden under the floor or run along flooring while minimizing unwanted visual effects.

When planning the number and size of radiators, it must be borne in mind that the weighted average rate of heat transfer from them, according to the current rules, should be at least 100 W per square meter premises. In the northern regions, where the ambient temperature in the cold season drops to minus 40 degrees, it is necessary to double this figure. Heat energy generation different types batteries are specified in the product documentation.

When marking places for fixing devices, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. The main locations are under the windows, in the corners of the room that overlook outer corner the whole house, in closets, in entrances.
2. The distance from the wall to the heater is at least 3 cm. Otherwise, the flow warm air from back side the batteries will be delayed, which will reduce heating efficiency.
3. The distance from the floor to the device is 6 cm or more. This will ensure the timely supply of cold air during its convection in the room.
4. Leave a gap of at least 5 cm before the window sill.
5. For the best effect, it is advisable to place a heat-reflecting material behind the heating device - isospan, penofol or their analogue.
6. It is necessary to place radiators at the bottom of the window opening so that the axis passing through the middle of the window coincides with the middle of the device.

Observing these rules, you can achieve the maximum thermal efficiency of the heating system of the entire apartment, which will ensure comfortable living at any time of the year.

One-pipe scheme

It is the most common in communal buildings due to significant savings in consumables and ease of installation. Nevertheless, this connection option has several serious disadvantages, and the choice of just such a scheme is recommended only if there is only one pipeline in the riser of the apartment, which does not allow to organize the connection of heating radiators differently.

A single-pipe scheme implies alternating supply of hot coolant from one radiator to another, which is why the main disadvantage of such a system is a gradual decrease in temperature as the distance from the supply riser is removed. That is, hot water coming from the central heating system, getting into the first radiator, and heating it, cools down. And the second battery is supplied with a temperature that is insufficient for full heating. Therefore, it is recommended to choose this method for small rooms with one or two radiators with no more than 8 sections.

The second disadvantage of the single-pipe circuit is the impossibility of installing thermostatic devices for each battery. With a decrease in the supply of the coolant on one device, its intensity will decrease in the entire line. For this reason, such a scheme is advisable to use in communal houses with apartments that have small rooms with one radiator, and the lower the floor, the more sections it should have, since when the coolant moves from bottom to top, it cools down. In this case, the total length of the pipeline should not exceed 30 meters and have no more than five radiators.

One-pipe system can be realized with side, bottom and diagonal connection method. If there is one radiator on the line, the connection will be one-sided, side or bottom. In this case, it is recommended to use a bypass - a jumper between the supply and discharge pipes and taps to repair or replace the battery in the event of a malfunction. If there are two or more heating devices in the line, it is advisable to choose diagonal pattern when the supply pipe is connected to the upper side inlet of the battery, and the outlet pipe is connected to the lower one on the opposite side of the instrument. Then the outlet pipe is connected to the top connector of the next battery, etc.

Two-pipe heating scheme

A better way to realize the possibilities of central heating in an apartment is the connection method with two pipelines. In this case, 2 pipes are used to supply and remove the coolant. Thanks to this, hot water enters the heating devices at the same time and with an equal temperature, so all batteries heat up the same, regardless of the location and number of sections. Despite the slightly higher consumption of materials, in comparison with a single-pipe, it has a number of obvious advantages:

1. Equal heating of all heating devices in the apartment.
2. Possibility of adjusting the temperature of each individual device.
3. Simple repair or replacement of the radiator in case of breakdown.
4. Smaller pipe diameters compared to single-pipe piping, which reduces the cost difference to almost zero.

Similar to the one-pipe connection method described above, the two-pipe system can also be realized in several ways - diagonally, sideways (one-way) or bottom way. The most effective is the diagonal connection, in which heat losses are minimal; it is during installation in this way that manufacturers test their products for heat transfer.

Side one-way connection

It is used when connecting one heater to the riser of the heating system. Then the hot water supply pipe is connected to the upper hole of the radiator, and the outlet pipe (return) is connected to the lower one on the same side. The circuit is widely used in apartment buildings large and mid-rise, when the coolant is supplied vertically through several risers in each room. In this case, too, it is necessary to use a bypass and shut-off valves for the safe operation of the entire riser in the event of a battery change.

It should be noted that one-sided lateral connection is effective only with a small length of the heating device, the number of sections should not exceed 10-12. Otherwise, the hot coolant inside the radiator will move along the shortest path and the side of the battery, opposite to the connection, will not warm up well. This also applies to the one-pipe connection diagram.

Diagonal connection method with two-pipe scheme

This type of connection is the most rational. Heat loss in this case is minimal, and the battery is heated evenly over all sections, so you can use radiators with a large number of them. It must be remembered that the more sections there are in the device, the larger the diameter of the supply and discharge pipes.

Depending on the specific situation, diagonal routing is implemented in two ways:

1. Hot water is fed into the upper hole of the radiator from one side and, having passed all the sections of the heater, is discharged from the lower hole on the opposite side.
2. The heating medium enters through the lower inlet and exits through the upper, on the opposite side.

The diagonal connection method is implemented in any apartment with the presence of supply and discharge pipelines in the riser, but it must be remembered that, according to the legislation, there is a limitation on the number of sections of heating devices, and their excessive increase may result in a fine, dismantling and bringing them into line with the norms.

Bottom connection features

The lower, also called saddle, connection is characterized by the lowest heat transfer coefficient and is used only when clearly necessary, usually to hide the pipelines under the floor. Depending on the design features used radiators are distinguished:

Pipes are just installed simultaneously with gas boilers.

It depends on this how the scheme for connecting heating batteries in a private house will be arranged later.

It is better to get acquainted with the current ones before making a choice in favor of certain devices. This will help you spend as little time and effort as possible on setting up a working system:

At least 2 cm distance between wall and back walls on the panels.
The gap should be 8-10 centimeters, starting from the top of the radiator and ending with the window sill.
10-12 centimeters is the minimum distance from the bottom of the battery to the floor.

In devices, heat transfer becomes less if the specified standards are not observed. The likelihood that the operation will be uninterrupted is reduced. And the very scheme of connecting heating batteries in a private house from a gas boiler ceases to be effective.

Radiators must have an adjustment function. It happens to be automatic, either. Therefore, the kits are supplied with heat regulators. Thanks to which it is easier to maintain the optimal temperature level inside the premises.

What is the piping

When connecting, use two-pipe or one-pipe circuits.

One-pipe version

In addition, heating is not complete without such additional elements.

Thermostat. It helps to save fuel, keep the temperature in the rooms at the same level.
Air vents. Needed for bleeding oxygen. It periodically accumulates in pipes, due to which it becomes a destructive element.
Shut-off valves. Repair service is easier for systems with a large number of cranes.

Expansion tanks - irreplaceable helpers when building systems of any type. It is released indoor and outdoor.

Paired with circulation pumps, only closed varieties are put. They try to place open tanks as high as possible. For example, in the house attic.

How to deal with chimneys

And in this case there is mandatory conditions... The diameter of the boiler outlet must exactly match. There are other subtleties:

If the pipe goes to an unheated room, insulation is required in these places.
It is unacceptable to have joints in the places where pipes pass through roofs or walls.
Three bends - maximum amount for the chimney from the boiler to the head.

Installation of heating batteries: main stages

Installation guidelines remain the same for each battery type. It doesn't matter which one played the main role, how the connections are made. The procedure will always look like this.

First, they shut off the entire heating system, drain the water.
Dismantle the battery along with other elements of the old circuit.
The use of dowels for marking and fixing brackets on the wall surface. A cement mortar is needed to grind the places with fasteners in order to level the surface.
After that, they begin to install the plugs. Entry holes are provided for each pipe, on both sides. The plugs for the organization of the passage, on which the correct thread is applied, are screwed on in the places where the connections are located. Linen strips with additional sealing add airtightness to the entire structure. In the upper part there is a valve mechanism that releases excess air.
Radiators are hung on supports prepared in advance. Aquatic special devices will help to check how correctly the levels are set.
Installation of a shut-off valve inside the passage plugs.
The batteries are connected to the pipeline.
The entire heating network is tested.

Do not get carried away with decorative protective screens. They look, but in the right moment can block access to thermostats. Because of this, the heating is turned off when there is insufficient heating.

More information about the home heating system can be seen in the video:

Installing batteries

If the house is beautiful, but cold, it will not be very comfortable to live in it. Therefore, the assembly engineering communications- it is a very responsible business. If it is carried out independently, experts recommend that you first study all the installation features in as much detail as possible. We will talk about how to connect a radiator and which circuit to choose for maximum heat transfer.

Before talking about the options for connecting radiators, it is worthwhile to dwell on existing schemes heating, choosing the most suitable place for installing the radiator, as well as describing the ways of circulating the coolant

Heating schemes

To service apartment buildings and private houses, two heating systems are actively used today - one-pipe and two-pipe.

The one-pipe scheme assumes the supply of hot coolant from the top of the house, and then its distribution among the heating devices installed in each apartment. This system has one major drawback. It does not allow you to regulate the temperature generated by heating devices without additional installation. special devices... And one more significant minus - having reached the lower floors, the coolant noticeably cools down, so there is not enough heat in the apartments.

The two-pipe system is completely devoid of such moments. This is a more efficient scheme from existing heating systems. Indeed, in it, hot water is supplied to the battery through one riser, and then through the other - the return line - goes back to general scheme... Separate batteries are connected to the system in parallel, therefore, in each heater, the coolant temperature is approximately the same. It can be adjusted by installing a thermostat on the radiator. And this is another advantage of such a heating organization.

What is important to consider when choosing a place to install a radiator?

When choosing a place for connecting the battery, it is important to take into account that the functions of this device are not only to provide heat, but also to protect the room from the penetration of cold from the outside. That is why radiators are installed in places that are weakest from this point of view - under windowsills. So they cut off the flow of cold air that enters the room through a window or balcony block.

Exists ready circuit location of heating batteries. Mounting distances are determined in accordance with existing SNiP standards. As a result, they allow you to get maximum heat transfer. Therefore, it is worth mentioning them.

Note! Place batteries at a distance of 12 cm from the floor, 10 cm from the windowsill and 2 cm from the wall. It is not recommended to violate these norms.

Additional equipment and methods of circulation of the coolant in the heating system

How to connect the heating correctly

Before proceeding to the description of heating connection schemes, it is worth talking about the equipment that will be needed at the time of its implementation.

The water inside the system can circulate in a natural and forced way. The second option involves connecting a circulation pump. He pushes hot water, helping her get to the very hard-to-reach places... In order to do this, the pump must be built into the general system, choosing a place directly at the boiler.

Note! By connecting a circulation pump, we make the heating system volatile. In the event of a power outage, it will not work.

But engineers have long come up with a device that allows you to reconfigure the forced circulation of the coolant to the natural one. This device is called a bypass. In fact, such equipment is a conventional jumper that is installed between the supply pipe and the return pipe. For the system to work without interruption, the diameter of the bypass must be less than the diameter of the main wiring.

Radiator connection diagrams

There are several heating schemes that allow you to connect the batteries to the central line. It:

Side one-way connection.
Lower.
Diagonal.

The first option provides maximum heat transfer, so many people prefer it. When choosing such a scheme, the batteries are connected to the wiring as follows. The supply pipe is connected to the upper side pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected to the lower one on the same side.

Installing radiators

This scheme contributes to an even distribution of the volume of the coolant inside the battery. The latter heats up completely, which means that it gives off heat in greater quantities. Experts strongly recommend choosing this option when the radiator consists of a large number sections - up to 15 units. It should also be used when all heating devices in a house or apartment are connected in parallel into a single network.

The bottom connection allows the piping to be hidden in the floor. With it, both the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to the lower outlets of the batteries. The system works effectively only at constant maximum water pressure. As soon as it falls, the radiator is half-empty inside, and the heat transfer is reduced by 15%. With this option, the batteries heat up unevenly - their bottom is hotter than the top. And this must be taken into account when choosing a similar connection method.

The diagonal connection assumes the supply of the supply pipe to the upper branch pipe of the battery, and the return branch to the lower one, located on the opposite side. With this option, the battery inside is also filled completely, so the loss of heat transfer is no more than 2%.

How to connect correctly?

Installation of heating radiators

After choosing the wiring diagram, you must install the batteries correctly:

It is better to hang the radiator from the wall using brackets. In this case, two are attached from above, taking on the main weight load, and two from below, supporting a heavy heater. Note! If a radiator consisting of 12 sections or more is used, an additional bracket is required, which is attached from above exactly in the center of the heaters.
When fastening, it is advisable to arm yourself with a building level and set the batteries horizontally and vertically. Any misalignment, even the smallest, will lead to the formation of an air lock inside the radiator. It will not allow the device to demonstrate its maximum capabilities.
The number of sections is calculated not only taking into account the capacities. Models are selected whose width completely covers the space under the windowsill.
When connecting, it is necessary not to allow the upper supply pipe to bend downwards and the lower discharge pipe upwards. This will also lead to the formation of air jams, but not in the battery itself, but in the pipes. Moreover, it will be extremely problematic to eliminate them.
If radiators with more than 12 sections are installed, it is better to choose a diagonal connection. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to fill the entire volume of the heater with a coolant.
To achieve maximum heat transfer, experts recommend using a foil shield, which is attached from the back of the device directly to the wall. If this is not done, a significant amount of heat goes to heating the wall, and not the room.

What material to choose for connecting batteries?

Complete heating system diagram

Today, in 90% of cases, metal-plastic pipes are used to connect radiators. The bends are attached to the devices by metal welding, and then the wiring is installed using the soldering method. The result is a very durable and reliable connection which looks very aesthetically pleasing.

For greater safety, all the necessary locking equipment is immediately installed. Instead of ball valves, experts recommend paying attention to valves with thermostatic heads. They will make it possible to carry out all the necessary adjustments in automatic mode.

When buying modern radiators, you do not need to think about choosing a kit for a competent connection. The package already includes brackets, radiator fittings, an air vent, and American taps, several connectors, tees, elbows and clamps. Therefore, it will be very easy to make a high-quality connection, taking into account the recommendations given.

Conclusion on the topic

Heating batteries are connected in three ways. The choice of a particular option depends on many factors. It is important to consider the number of radiator sections and the characteristics of heating systems.

So, for example, in the presence of forced circulation, any of three types of connection can be used - both bottom, and diagonal, and one-sided lateral. With natural circulation, pressure surges of the coolant often occur, and the bottom connection in this case is not always effective.

The main function of any heating system is to warm up the room. Each element of such a system, starting from the boiler and ending with the batteries in the farthest room, must be connected and located in such a way that the level of their heat transfer is close to the maximum. In the radiator connection system, it is necessary to take into account such features of each room as the location of the pipes, their length, as well as total amount heating devices.

How to choose the right place

Heating in the house works simultaneously in two directions:

Warming up the room,
Blocking the movement of cold air.

That is why the connection of heating radiators in a private house is a rather complicated process, on the correctness of which the comfort in the room will depend.

Video 1 Guide to connecting heating batteries

Most often, batteries are placed under the windowsill, for this it is necessary to maintain a certain distance:

Between the wall and the battery - from three to five centimeters.
Between the floor and the radiator - at least 10 centimeters.

In addition, the battery should not be placed completely under the window sill - if it is too wide, heating device should be pushed forward using special fasteners.

In cottages or houses, batteries are most often placed in two versions - this is a one-pipe and two-pipe connection method. It is worth considering each of them in more detail in order to choose the most optimal one for yourself.

One-pipe scheme

Methods for connecting heating radiators in a private house include the simplest one - this is a one-pipe method, according to which all batteries are connected in series using one pipe. It goes from the heating boiler to the first radiator, then to the second, third, and so on. There is another option for such a connection - a one-piece pipe, to which the radiators are connected using risers and return pipes (return pipes). In the first version of the circuit, one of the radiators cannot be blocked without stopping the supply of heat to the others. The advantage of the method is the saving of materials, the minus is the big difference in heating the first radiator from the boiler and the radiator in the farthest room.

Video 2 One-pipe radiator heating system

Two-pipe scheme

The way to connect heating radiators in a private house according to this scheme is somewhat more complicated. The system consists of several radiators, which are connected to each other in a parallel way. In this case, summing up hot water carried out through one pipe, and the return flow through the other. This method most suitable for heating a private house or cottage, since the degree of heating in this case is almost identical in all rooms, it can be regulated using a convenient thermostat.

When placing radiators, one should take into account how the heating system was designed, in particular, if the movement of the coolant is provided by the pump, there are much fewer problems in this case, but there is a dependence on energy carriers.

Video 3 How to connect a radiator to a two-pipe heating system

Natural circulation is much more common, that is, a hot coolant, most often it is water, rising upwards, pushes out the cold one with its mass. In this case, the heating system does not depend on energy carriers, but it is only necessary to design such a scheme for specialists who will study the total length of pipes, the specifics, the number of heating elements, as well as the number of sections in radiators.

In a word, if the goal is to provide high-quality heating of the house, it is necessary to take into account all the features of a particular object, and entrust the process to professionals.

You can buy an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but you cannot achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be incorrectly selected devices for the final heat transfer. indoors, in the role which traditionally are most often radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable by all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?

And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show the output parameters of heat transfer that are announced by the manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options are. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some schemes.

Necessary information for the correct choice of radiator connection diagram

In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to begin with considering what, in principle, a standard heating radiator is. The term "standard" is used because there are completely "exotic" batteries, but they are not included in the plans of this publication.

The basic device of a heating radiator

So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:

In terms of layout, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow this amount to be varied, adding and decreasing, depending on the required total thermal power or based on the maximum allowable assembly size. For this, between the sections it is provided threaded connection using special couplings (nipples) with the required seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected "tightly" or even represent a single metal structure... But in the light of our topic, this difference is of no fundamental importance.

But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common collectors located horizontally at the top (item 2) and below (item 3). And at the same time, each of the sections provides for the connection of these collectors by a vertical channel (item 4) for the movement of the coolant.

Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper collector, G3 and G4 for the lower one.

In the overwhelming majority of connection schemes used in heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The other two entrances are closed off with plugs or other locking devices.

And that's what is important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer from the heating radiator depends on how these two entrances, feeds and "return" will be mutually located.

Note : Of course, the circuit is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it can have its own characteristics. So, for example, in the familiar to everyone cast iron batteries type MC - 140 each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the shown hydraulic scheme. So everything that will be said further in equally applies to them as well.

Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?

It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant moves. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the "return". And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or

Features of the one-pipe system

This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, and is quite popular in single-story buildings. individual construction... Its widespread demand is primarily based on the fact that significantly fewer pipes are required during construction, volumes are reduced installation works.

To put it as simply as possible, this system is a single pipe running from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the heating radiators connected in series are "strung".

On a scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:

It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "circuit" becomes the supply of the next - and so on, until the end of this closed loop. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant disadvantages of such a system.

The location of a single-pipe circuit is also possible, which is typical for buildings of several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses of several floors. This, too, should not be forgotten if, say, the owners got the house from the old owners, that is, with the already installed wiring of the heating circuits.

Here two options are possible, shown in the diagram below, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".

Prices for popular heating radiators

Option "a" is called a riser with an upper supply of the coolant. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then successively goes down through all the radiators. That is, the supply of hot coolant directly to the batteries is carried out from top to bottom.
Option "b" - one-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant bypasses a series of radiators. Then the direction of flow is reversed, the coolant passes through a string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.

The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a one-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the flow of the coolant, is even more pronounced.

Thus, if a one-pipe system is mounted in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal radiator connection diagram, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.

The secrets of the popularity of the Leningradka heating system

Despite the rather significant drawbacks, one-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article on our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which one-pipe systems are not able to work normally.

And if the system is two-pipe?

A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to operate and lends itself better to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material will be required to create it, and the installation work is becoming more ambitious.

As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding nozzles of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply collector pipe is kept practically the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).

This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:

In this case, the supply riser is plugged from above, like the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.

It is important to correctly understand one nuance. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is already two-pipe. For example, with a vertical layout, there might be a picture like this:

Such an arrangement can mislead the owner inexperienced in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still one-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of the coolant.

Aluminum radiator prices

aluminum radiator

It's different if the connection looks like this:

The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes- supply and "return". That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.

There are other schemes two-pipe connection... For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "ray" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the contour wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.

In such cases, a collector unit is placed in a certain place, and from separate pipes of supply and "return" for each of the radiators are already being carried out. But at its core, it is still a two-pipe system.

Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to choose a radiator connection diagram, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is a supply collector, and which one is connected to the "return".

But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a one-pipe system, no longer plays a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes in the supply and in the "return".

By the way, even in conditions not very big house a combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe one was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an annex, several radiators are located, connected according to a one-pipe principle. This means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and to individually evaluate each point of heat exchange: what will be decisive for it - the direction of flow in the pipe or the relative position of the pipes-collectors of the return and return flow.

If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.

Diagrams for connecting radiators to the circuit and assessing their effectiveness

All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how you can connect radiators to the pipes of the circuit, and which of the methods gives the maximum efficiency of heat transfer.

As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are involved, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?

A few more introductory words. What are the "incentive reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the radiator channels.

This is, firstly, the dynamic head of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume, if conditions are created for this (there are no air locks). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
Secondly, the difference in temperatures (and, accordingly, density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself becomes the "driving force". The hotter streams tend upward, trying to displace the cooled ones.

The combination of these forces ensures the flow of the coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can be quite different.

Prices for cast iron radiators

cast iron radiator

Diagonal connection, top feed

This scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating the heating system, it is she who is taken as a "unit", and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.

It is quite obvious that the coolant cannot meet any obstacles a priori with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper collector, evenly flows along the vertical channels from the upper collector to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat-exchange area of the radiator heats up evenly, the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.

One-way connection, top feed

Highly widespread scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a one-pipe system in risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.

In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the heatsink itself is not too long. But if a lot of sections are collected in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.

It is quite possible that the kinetic energy of the coolant will not be enough in order for the flow to pass fully along the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass along the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation in the "peripheral zone" of the stagnation section, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the inset.

Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of heat power by about 3 ÷ 5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special techniques for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.

One-way connection, bottom feed

The scheme can in no way be called effective, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing one-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is carried out from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often installed by builders in this way. and, probably, this is the only at least somewhat justified case of its use.

For all the seemingly similarities with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a stagnant zone on the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easy to explain. Not only will the coolant seek the shortest and most free path, the difference in density will also contribute to its aspiration upward. And the periphery can either "freeze" or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.

Losses of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20 ÷ 22%. That is, it is not recommended to resort to it unless absolutely necessary. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.

Bilateral bottom connection

Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of maximum concealment from the visibility of the piping. True, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.

It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its distribution along vertical channels upwards occurs exclusively due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" by the counter currents of the cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensely as we would like.

Losses in the overall efficiency of heat transfer with such a connection can reach 10 ÷ 15%. However, such a scheme is also easily amenable to optimization.

Diagonal connection with bottom feed

It is difficult to imagine a situation in which you would have to resort to such a connection. Nevertheless, consider this scheme as well.

Prices for bimetallic radiators

bimetallic radiators

The direct flow entering the radiator gradually dissipates its kinetic energy, and may simply "not finish off" along the entire length of the lower manifold. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upward, both along the shortest path, and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the branch pipe in the return line.

Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with such a connection are estimated at 20%.

Two-way connection from above

Let's be honest - this is more for an example, since applying such a scheme in practice will be the height of illiteracy.

Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for spreading throughout the rest of the radiator. That is, only the area along the upper collector will actually be heated - the rest is “out of play”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into an unequivocally ineffective one.

The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously performing the role of dryers. And if you have to supply pipes in this way, then various ways of converting such a connection into an optimal scheme are necessarily used. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains so only visually.

How can you optimize the radiator wiring diagram?

It is quite understandable that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimum energy consumption. And for this you need to try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already available and you don't want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay the pipes so that they become almost invisible. What to do in such cases?

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the sidebar by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. In this case, the effect of increasing heat transfer must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such "art" look, frankly, "not very".

There are other methods for solving this problem.

You can buy batteries that, outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another method of possible connection as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, radically changing the direction of movement of the coolant.

In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:

All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises along vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this upper point, further distribution, quite obviously, is already underway, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from the top.

Or, for example, the case mentioned above, when it is required to bring both pipes from above:

In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last radiator sections. It turns out that the entire volume of the coolant has only one way - through the lower inlet of the last section, vertically along it - and further into the return pipe. Eventually " route of movement»Liquid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.

Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series are on sale, in which the same model can be designed for different tie-in schemes, but in the end an optimal "diagonal" is obtained. This is indicated in the product passports. In this case, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, then the whole effect is lost.

There is another possibility to improve the efficiency of the radiator using this principle. For this, special valves should be found in specialized stores.

They must be sized according to the selected battery model. When screwing in such a valve, it closes the transition nipple between the sections, and then into its internal thread the supply or return pipe is packed, depending on the scheme.

The inner baffles shown above are intended more to improve heat dissipation when the batteries are connected on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tapping - we are talking about the so-called flow extenders.

Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator bore and, when assembled, ends up in the manifold cavity along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required thread type and required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube for it of the required length is selected separately.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

What is achieved by this? Let's take a look at the diagram:

The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal scheme "diagonal from top to bottom".

Many master practice and self-production similar extension cords. If you look at it, there is nothing impossible in this.

As the extension cord itself, it is quite possible to use metal-plastic pipe for hot water, 15 mm in diameter. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the through-plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.

As you can see from the above, you can almost always find a solution to how to turn an ineffective battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.

What about the one-way bottom connection?

They may ask perplexedly - why the article has not yet mentioned the diagram of the lower connection of the radiator on one side? After all, it is quite popular, since it allows to carry out hidden piping to the maximum extent.

And the fact is that the above considered possible schemes, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their alternating with one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both supply and take off the coolant, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.

What is commonly understood under the bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only supplying pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.

Here is just one example of a radiator specially designed for piping. one side below:

If you look at the diagram, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us "one-way with supply from above", which can be considered one of the optimal options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective pattern "diagonal from top to bottom" is generally achieved.

Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. For this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic regulation of the radiator.

The upper and lower branch pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. As a result - a ready-made battery with a bottom one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.

So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?

How does the location on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?

Can be purchased very high quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for connecting it, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of important nuances of its installation.

There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.

Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, the streams of heated air become a kind of thermal curtain, which in many respects limits the free spread of cold from the surface of the window.

Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.

If the radiator is installed under a window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ the width of the window. This will provide optimal heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance to one side or the other up to 20 mm.
The battery should not be installed too high - the window sill overhanging it can turn into an insurmountable obstacle for ascending convection air currents, which leads to a decrease in the overall efficiency of heat transfer. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If you cannot set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the radiator thickness.
There is a certain regulation and clearance at the bottom, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too small a height, less than 100 mm, will introduce unnecessary difficulties during cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into an accumulation of dust, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing brackets for a battery canopy, take into account that there must be a free gap of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, dust deposits may accumulate there, normal convection will be disrupted.

These rules can be considered indicative. If the radiator manufacturer does not give other recommendations, then you should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams in which the recommended installation parameters are specified. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.

The next nuance is how open it turns out installed battery for complete heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.

If the battery is under a window, the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even more so, applies to the niches in the wall. In addition, radiators are often tried to cover, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) covers. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the thermal output of the battery, then it is quite possible to face the sad fact that it is impossible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.

The table below shows the main possible options installation of radiators on the wall according to their "degree of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of the overall heat transfer efficiency.

Illustration	Installation Option Operational Features
	The radiator is installed so that nothing is overlapped from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the thickness of the battery. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not covered with blackout curtains, then there is no interference for direct heat radiation. In the calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit.
	The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the top of the radiator. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but some efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The total loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3 ÷ 5%.
	A similar situation, but only on top is not a visor, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses in the range of 7 - 8%.
	The radiator is installed as in the first version, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But from the front side it is covered with a decorative grill or screen throughout its entire area. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the defining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10 ÷ 12%.
	A decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both heat radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching 20 ÷ 25%.

So, we examined the basic schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information was obtained on the applied methods of optimization of circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany the selected installation options are indicated.

Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose correct scheme proceeding from the specific conditions for creating a heating system... But it would probably be logical to end the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.

Do not be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.

How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?

Everything is simple enough.

At first, the amount of heat energy that is needed to warm up the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses, is calculated. Moreover, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned scheme of the radiator inset and the peculiarities of its location on the wall.
The final value will show how much power a radiator is needed to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time