Dismantling of cast iron sewer pipes. Diy embossing of a cast-iron sewer pipe. Decorating pipes, minted in different ways

To dismantle the old sewer, you will need the following tools:

Gas torch or blowtorch;
Chisel;
Bulgarian;
Mask.

First of all, before dismantling the cast-iron sewer, you need to make sure that the pipes are "set" on sulfur. To do this, break off a piece of sealant and set it on fire, if it is sulfur, then it will burn with an even, blue flame. A characteristic smell will also appear, which cannot be confused with anything. Further, the pipes are broken with a chisel, while leaving only the node that is connected to the riser. If possible, it is advisable to cut the cast iron to the maximum in order to clear the way to the connection.

The pipes are heated to liquidate the sulfur. This is done with an open flame of a blowtorch or torch. Depending on the nature of the sewerage system, the entire process can take more than three hours. Note! For greater convenience, it is better to do the work together: one person heats up the pipes, and the second removes them.

Having cleared all the connections from sulfur, we loosen the cast-iron sewer tee. If all the sulfur has leaked out, then it will be easy to do. Further, all residual sulfur is removed, and the tee is left to cool. This will take about an hour, after which it will be possible to start installing new pipes.

Sewerage repair

Repair of a cast-iron sewerage system is often carried out in "old-fashioned" ways. but modern methods repairs are much more efficient. If a small crack or chip appears on the pipes, then it will be enough to use a bandage, a jar of liquid glass and cement. To begin with, the surface is prepared according to the standard procedure (cleaning and degreasing). Next, water glass and cement are mixed until a thick mass is obtained. The finished mixture is spread on the pipe and wrapped in a bandage, while each turn is processed with the mixture.

Note! The mixture dries quickly, so all work should be done quickly too.

If the crack on the pipe has gone from above, then you can apply a rubber bandage in the longitudinal direction. The overlap is folded over and tightened with two clamps. If there is a financial opportunity, then you can fill the entire surface with silicone. Silicone will be effective for a while, but since it is not intended to be applied over large areas and has a weak adhesion to cast iron, it will not be useful for a long time.

Repair work on the street

If there is a need to repair a cast iron pipe that is located outdoors, then you can use the same methods as described above. However, it is advisable to make additional fixation of abutting cast iron pipes so that deformations in the soil do not open cracks. If the pipe is adjacent to a septic tank, then the above methods may not work. The design of the septic tank is subject to seasonal fluctuations, and this can destroy the integrity of the connection being repaired.

In this case, the first thing to do is use liquid glass, which is on top in a large number filled with mastic, which is used for gluing joints in panel houses... In principle, the mastic perfectly seals the cracks on its own, therefore, if there is no liquid glass available, then you can do without it. However, it is still better to do sealing with it, so it is more reliable.

Note! In case of large cracks, such repair methods are not suitable; the entire section of the pipe will have to be replaced.

At overhaul bathroom one of mandatory steps is a replacement engineering communications... This process precedes the dismantling of the sewage system left after the construction of the house. V modern houses it's pretty simple to do this. But in the apartments of the old fund you will have to work hard. The sewer pipes in them, as a rule, are made of cast iron, and are sealed to last. How to remove them without disrupting the operation of the drainage system throughout the house - you can learn about this from this material.

The standard sewage system in Soviet-built houses consists of the following elements:

main riser running between floors;
shaped bend (cross or tee) to connect the riser to the main line inside the apartment;
intra-apartment wiring.

The main riser is not a one-piece pipe, but a set of cast-iron sections, the length of each of which is equal to the height of the ceiling in the apartment. All these sections are butt-connected. At the upper end, each has a socket, into which a straight line is inserted lower end shaped branch. The latter is connected in the same way to the next section. All joints are reliably sealed with either gray or carbolic acid, or cement mortar.

Important! When dismantling the pipeline, the main difficulty is not to damage the bell of the section located below. It will remain in operation after replacing the riser section, so no cracks or chips should form in it.

The easiest dismantling option

Ideal replacement option sewer pipes- negotiate with the neighbors on the riser and replace the pipeline in several or even all apartments at once. In this case, there will simply not be any difficulties with how to dismantle the cast-iron sewage system. The stand can be cut into pieces or, in extreme cases, gouged with a sledgehammer, without worrying about its safety.

Another good option is when the upstairs neighbors don't mind unblocking the hole in interfloor overlap between your apartments and work in your bathroom. In this situation, you can remove the entire cast iron section up to the tee located one floor above. But alas, it is not always possible to implement these options. Further, an action plan is proposed in the most difficult version - when the work site is limited to only one apartment.

We advise you to find out what breakdowns can occur with and how to fix them yourself.

Read on: what benefits it has for bathrooms.

Stages of parsing the sewer

Dismantling sewerage system in an apartment includes the following steps:

preparatory work;
removal of wiring inside the apartment;
dismantling the sewer riser;
removal of the fan tap.

The last stage is the most critical. But, as experienced plumbers say, the main thing during it is to act confidently and be patient. It will take a long time to carefully remove the tee / cross from the flare of the lower section. Typically, the process takes 4-5 hours, depending on what methods of sealing the pipes were used by the builders of the house.

What you need to work

Before proceeding with dismantling, stock up on the necessary tools and overalls. As with any construction works, it is better to choose a robe that you will not mind throwing away after the end of the process. In addition, you should take care of personal protective equipment:

gloves: rubber and fabric;
protective glasses;
a good breathing filter or gas mask.

Of the tools you will need:

saw-grinder with a set of discs for metal;
chisel or thick screwdriver;
sledgehammer or heavy hammer;
scrap / nail / pull-out;
thin durable screwdriver;
chisel;
blowtorch or powerful hair dryer.

These things will come in handy anyway. But besides this set, other tools may be required. This will depend on the progress of the work.

Advice: you do not need to start dismantling the sewer system alone. Be sure to find yourself a mate for this event.

Preparatory stage

Before starting to dismantle the cast-iron sewage system with your own hands, you need to do a little preparation. Turn off the water in the apartment and disconnect from drain pipe all the plumbing available in the house. Clear the area around the riser and intra-apartment wiring. In some houses, the drainage pipes are recessed into the floor screed or hidden in niches in the wall. If this is the case, you will have to work with a puncher to ensure free access to them.

Next, you should shut off the water throughout the riser. It will also be useful to warn all the neighbors from the upper floors that plumbing work is underway in the apartment, and they should not use the sewage system yet. Remove furniture, textiles and Appliances... If the water pipes in the apartment have already been replaced, you need to close them with a shield made of heat-resistant material so as not to damage them in the process. After that, you can start your main work.

We disassemble the inter-apartment wiring

This stage usually takes the least time. There is no point in keeping the pipeline inside the apartment intact, so it does not need to be disassembled. It is enough just to cut off the branch leading to the bath, sink and other plumbing with the help of a grinder, and then saw or split it into smaller pieces and take it out of the apartment.

Attention! The first cut should be made as close as possible to the funnel socket.

Dismantle the riser

Dismantling the riser must be done with extreme caution. First of all, you need to make a couple of horizontal cuts in the upper part of the pipe, at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ceiling. It is not necessary to cut the pipe completely, it is better to leave a whole area of 3-5 cm in size. Then carefully knock out the ring obtained between the cuts with a sledgehammer.

Important! After this operation, it is worth plugging the rest of the pipe sticking out of the ceiling with rags and plastic wrap.

Further, the section is cut from below at a distance of about half a meter from the tee / cross. After that, the clamps are removed that secure the pipe to the wall. Then the section is split off along the notch line, removed from the place and removed from the room.

Parsing the tee

The procedure for dismantling the tee / cross will depend on how its joint with the lower section of the sewer pipe is sealed. If cement is used as a sealant, the fan outlet is gently loosened with a scrap. In the process, you can try to chip off and remove small pieces of cement putty using a narrow screwdriver. If the layer of cement is very thick, it is knocked down with a hammer and chisel. After removing the bulk of the putty, the crosspiece is carefully removed from the socket.

Important! When breaking off the cement, you need to try so that its pieces do not fall down the riser.

If the tee is sealed with sulfur, to remove it, it is necessary to heat it for a long time with a blowtorch or hairdryer. During the heating process, the sulfuric putty will melt. The outlet must be constantly loosened a little in order to speed up the melting process. As soon as possible, it is removed from the socket.

Attention! This procedure accompanied by a very unpleasant odor... It is recommended to wear a gas mask.

If the funnel bend does not lend itself to any manipulation, it is simply cut off with a grinder at a distance of 5–6 cm from the lower bell. The rest of the riser is then cleaned, and new pipes are attached to it using special adapters.

The question is how to disassemble the cast-iron sewer correctly, how to pull the cast-iron pipe out of the socket and remove the tee. Everything in detail - in this article!

Sooner or later, every owner of a dwelling has to deal with the replacement of the old sewer pipeline. And the main stage in carrying out typical work is the problem of how to disassemble a cast-iron sewer. In older houses, a cast-iron pipe was used to connect the parts of the sewer system, the joints were made using aluminum, sulfur or cement mortar. If the pipes were connected with cement, then dismantling such a system will not take much time. But if aluminum or sulfur was used for the connection, then it will take much more time to dismantle the cast-iron sewage system with your own hands.

Dismantling sequence

At first glance, it may seem that dismantling a cast-iron sewer is a trifling matter. After all, everyone knows the saying that breaking is much easier than building from scratch. However, it is precisely for such work that a qualified approach is required. Since at the slightest deviation from the order of actions, damage can be caused to the joint, which is installed to connect the central highway. And this will already become a real disaster, because you will have to change the riser connecting several apartments at once. In addition, the neighbors are unlikely to express positive emotions from an unexpected problem with the sewage system.

To dismantle cast-iron sewer pipes, you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

Before dismantling the cast-iron sewer pipe, the water supply from the water supply is turned off.
Using a gas wrench, a hose is disconnected from the toilet, which supplies water to the cistern.
The toilet is dismantled. To do this, it is enough to remove the fastening elements installed on the floor.
Free the bathroom from the objects in it that will interfere with the parsing of cast-iron pipes.
Start parsing old system... Due to the fact that cast iron has a low brittleness parameter, parts that are installed at a distance from the central riser can simply be broken with a hammer.
Pipes that are brought to the riser are removed.
A cuff is installed at the junction of the socket and tee. Before this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the socket from the old grease, which in the future can become an obstacle to the qualitative installation of new parts.

How to dismantle pipes with a burner?

As noted, if sulfur was used for joining the sewer, then this complicates disassembly several times. However, there are proven options that will help to disassemble cast iron sewer pipes in such a situation. Like the other Chemical substance, it is possible to destroy the structure of sulfur under the influence of the combustion temperature. It increases the viscosity and plasticity of the grease. All that remains is to remove the remaining sulfur from the surface.

To disconnect the sewer, which uses sulfur at the joints, it is necessary to prepare a hammer with a chisel, as well as a gas burner. If the torch is not at hand, then a blowtorch is also suitable for work.

During work, it is important to observe safety measures, since when heated, sulfur dioxide is released into the air, which is a health hazard. And, of course, open fire is also dangerous. Therefore, you should not neglect the safety rules. Protect yourself from prolonged exposure to sulfur dioxide, and heating can last two hours, it is best to find a gas mask. To separate the area where open fire is used, it is possible by installing a protective asbestos or metal screen.

Dismantling procedure

The most expedient option is considered to start work with the dismantling of pipes that are at some distance from the mainline. This stage will not cause additional difficulties and problems, since cast iron easily lends itself to hammer and chisel action.

Due to the fragility of this metal, it is not recommended to use an impact tool with metal attachments for parsing. If the impact is too strong, pieces of the part can get into the system and reduce the throughput or cause a blockage. It is best to use a hammer with a plastic or polymer head.

Removal work cast iron pipe is carried out according to the following algorithm:

The details are destroyed with a hammer until the cross is visible, which is inserted into the riser.
With the help of a hammer, all the remaining sections that reach the cross are broken.
Before pulling the cast-iron pipe out of the sewer socket, it is necessary to loosen the crosspiece right inside the riser. The pipe section that connects to the cross remains intact. In this case, the dismantling operation will be somewhat simplified.
If sulfur was used for the connection, then it is necessary to put on personal protective equipment and fence off the open fire with a special screen. Then you can start heating the sulfur. The work will be done faster if more than one person is involved. One will be engaged in reflowing the docking substance, and the second will remove it from the surface with a knife.
Once 70% of the grease has been removed from the docking point, the crosspiece can be removed from the riser.

Many have problems with such a stage as removing the cast iron sewer tee. It is important to remember here that with particular care you should remove the pipes that are connected to the tee located on the riser. With the help of a grinder, you need to saw off a section of the pipe located at a distance of at least ten centimeters to the riser. The remaining piece must be calculated and pulled out of the socket. Next, you can dismantle the cast iron sewer tee.

Frequent problems

Dismantling must be carried out to the maximum limit. Therefore, you need to cut the cast iron pipe to the distance indicated above. The best tool for dismantling is a grinder. If you don't have an electric saw at hand, you can use a hacksaw for work. Naturally, manual labor will significantly increase the time that will have to be spent on dismantling operations.

If at one of the stages of work there are difficulties, how to disassemble a cast-iron sewer in an apartment, in no case should you be upset. Since in the store you can always find a transition sleeve. Such a part is specifically designed to connect polymer and cast iron pipes.

In some cases, difficulties arise when cutting a plastic pipe. Here you should try to cut the part into half a circle. Further, by not using strong pressure, the pipe should be turned in one direction and then in the other direction. With the help of such a simple manipulation, the part should burst.

How to disassemble cast iron sewer pipes if the parts are not removed from the socket and all popular methods have already been tried? you can approach the solution of the problem with an extraordinary method. For this, small circular cuts are made on the pipe. The distance between them should be about two centimeters. The cuts are made all the way to the socket, and then the pipe should be easily removed from the riser.

Before connecting old cast iron pipes and new polymer parts, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the metal from sulfur residues. This can be done using the same heating. Next, you need to wait for the time during which the pipe cools down. For the construction of a new sewer system, it is better to use pipes made of metal-plastic or polymers. These products are designed with the modern requirements and innovative technologies are used for their manufacture.

Video review:

Everything useful about sewage -

Replacing an old pipeline is not an easy task, which becomes more complicated when it is necessary to dismantle a cast-iron sewer. The complexity of the process is influenced by the material that was used to connect the pipes.

The cement mortar can be easily removed; when fixing parts with sulfur, the work takes longer and requires more effort.

To disassemble the sewer, which was minted with cement, a little materials will come in handy. In the course of work, difficulties may arise; in order to be ready for them, it is better to prepare a complete set at once.

To dismantle the cast iron sewer, you may need the following tools and materials:

grinder, for cutting a piece of pipe;
cutting and grinding discs;
a gas mask or a special mask, goggles, a hat when disassembling a pipeline planted with sulfur;
blowtorch for heating pipes;
hammer and screwdrivers of different lengths and thicknesses to loosen products;
pipe wrench, used so as not to burn your hands;
chisel.

When the cast-iron sewage system is destroyed, this list will be replenished with the following tools:

puncher;
a knife made of durable metal;
chisel and steel wedge;
nail puller or scrap;
pipe cutter;
iron bucket of water.

Before you start dismantling the pipeline, you should determine in what way the products are connected.

Photo: we determine in what way the products are connected

Dismantling when connecting pipes with gray

Any work must begin with precautions.

To exclude emergency situations you need to do the following:

turn off the flow of water through the riser;
disconnect the hose leading to the toilet barrel;
completely remove the toilet, for this you need to unscrew the bolts that secure it to the floor;
remove from the bathroom all equipment that interferes with the work ( washing machine, bidet, sink).

Pipes that are far from the riser can simply be broken with a hammer. All constructions leading to it are deleted. Dismantling of pipes sealed with sulfur is difficult due to its properties.

Over time, it becomes very strong, like a stone, firmly holding the pipes to the riser. The distribution lines are destroyed easily, in a place near the riser, you need to act more carefully.

Important! Because careless movements can damage the tee. In this case, you will have to replace the riser section, and this is a very time-consuming process.

How to disassemble an old cast-iron sewer in the absence of information, how was it installed? To determine the connection method, you need to bring a blowtorch to the pipe.

If the substance begins to melt and an unpleasant odor starts, then the pipeline is built with sulfur.

To destroy it, you must perform the following actions:

select a pipe at a considerable distance from the riser and begin to break it with a hammer. Since cast iron is a brittle material, it is easily damaged by mechanical damage. It is recommended to use a hammer with a polymer or plastic base. Metal nozzles can clog the piping. With a strong impact, a part remains inside the system;
actions with a hammer are performed until the cross of the product leading into the riser is detected. Then it must be loosened. It will be easier to do this if you leave a small piece of pipe;
prepare a blowtorch or gas torch. Next put on protective equipment, protect household items and you can get to work. At this stage, dismantling is carried out by two foremen. One specialist heats up the sulfur, gradually melting it, while the other looses the pipe at this time. To avoid burns, work must be carried out with gloves;

Photo: dismantling when connecting pipes with gray

after the work performed, when there is practically no substance used for the connection, the crosspiece can be removed from the cast-iron riser. In the process of removing products, you should be careful. Especially when removing pipes that have a tee connection;

In this case, a part of the product is cut off with a grinder, leaving a segment 10 cm long. It is carefully loosened and carefully removed from the socket. If there is no angle grinder, then you can use a hacksaw for metal, but such a tool will significantly delay the dismantling.

then carry out the removal of residual sulfur from the riser. To install new sewer pipes, it is necessary to leave it to cool for an hour.

Cast iron sewers can be very durable. If it is impossible to extract the pipe, it is necessary to make cuts around it every 20 mm. After that, she easily gets out of the riser.

If the system could not be disassembled and it is necessary to connect the pipeline with polymer pipes, then adapter couplings can be used to fasten them.

Work is associated with a danger to human health, since sulfur gas is released when the compounds are heated. The person performing the dismantling must take precautions: put on a gas mask and ensure constant ventilation of the room.

Important! The destruction of the sewer can take several hours, so it is important to take precautions. Since the work is connected with an open fire, it is also necessary to protect furniture or other decorative elements in the bathroom from fire using a special screen.

Dismantling when connecting pipes with cement and cable

The process of destruction of a cast-iron sewage system when it is connected to a riser with the help of cement is not very different from the actions described above.

Its main plus is the safety of work due to the lack of carbon monoxide which gives off sulfur. Dismantling begins with a cut of a piece of cast iron pipe.

To do this, you need to retreat some distance from the place of separation, about 30 cm.Then a screwdriver is placed in the hole and the frozen cement is knocked down with a hammer.

Important! It is best not to rush at this stage, as careless actions can damage the socket.

Photo: careless actions can damage the socket

After breaking all the cement, you should try to loosen the pipe. If it does not work, then you need to get the cable with a screwdriver.

Usually, after such actions, the pipe sways easily. There are situations when it is impossible to reach the bobbin or move the pipe. In such cases, resort to heating the connection with a blowtorch.

Strong heating will help to loosen the pipe and remove it with a wrench. For products with a diameter of 50 mm, use tool number 3 or 4, for a tee with a diameter of 100 mm, use another pipe.

Photo: after breaking all the cement, you should try to loosen the pipe

In order not to get burned, work should be performed in this sequence. First, put on gloves, then insert the fittings into the pipe, after which you can start heating it.

One person uses a torch or lamp, the other gently looses the product. The duration of work is from 1 hour to a whole day. Dismantling ends with the installation of new sewer pipes.

How to remove a cast iron sewer tee

Photo: cast iron sewer tee

The tee or cross is at the bottom of the riser. Its extraction from the system can be carried out by various methods.

There are three ways:

with a screwdriver and a hammer. This option involves carefully tapping the tee until a gap forms between the pipe and the cross. Going deep with a screwdriver into this hole over time, you can remove the tee. The method does not always give a positive result, and the work is performed for a long time;
warming up method. It is carried out using a gas torch or blowtorch. The method is faster, but the room is filled with unpleasant smoke. Basically, it is chosen when working with a small diameter pipe, for example 75 mm;

Dismantling can be carried out independently or resort to the help of a gas welder. To begin with, the socket of the cross is cut off so that a blowtorch can be inserted into the pipe.

Adjustment of the draft in the riser is ensured by placing a metal shield on the upper section of the pipe. If there are holes formed during the installation of the water supply system, then they must be closed with plaster or cement.

Important! Such precautions are taken so that sulfur residues do not penetrate into the neighboring bathroom. To prevent it from entering the riser, it is closed with a wedge. It is recommended to carry out heating evenly so as not to burst the bell.

When working with a blowtorch, you should check if the pipe is swinging. As soon as the loosening process begins, you need to get the tee using adjustable wrenches. To get rid of the sulfur residues, the cross must be placed in a bucket with cold water.

Photo: work with a blowtorch

using a grinder. It is necessary to cut off pieces of the tee with it, so that there is a small segment leaving the pipe. For further work a disc with a small diameter, less than 110 mm, is needed, it must go inside the pipe. Then you need to turn on the tool and cut the rest of the product. Next, a plug is placed in the pipe. It must be reliable so as not to penetrate the riser during operation. Using a hammer, knock out the cut part of the cross.

After removing the pipe, it is necessary to clean this place from the remains of cast iron products. The third method is considered the most reliable, although it takes a significant amount of time to complete it.

Photo: after removing the pipe, it is necessary to clean this place from cast iron residues

How to disassemble a cast iron riser

Like previous work, the dismantling of the riser begins with determining how the chasing of the seams took place. It could be made with mortars based on cement or its combination with sand, polymer-cement liquid or sulfur.

The latter option is less desirable, therefore, its presence should be excluded. To do this, take a chisel and pick out the seam between the crosspiece and the shaped pipe segment. The purpose of these actions is to get to the sealant.

If an unpleasant creak is heard when sliding on it, then the connection is made in gray. To confirm the guess, you need to remove a piece of sealant and set it on fire.

Bad smell blue flame and rapid ignition confirms that the mount is gray.

Photo: disassembling a cast iron riser

Then they begin to work on the upper part of the riser. With the help of a pipe cutter or grinder, cuts are made on the pipe.

They should be horizontal with a 10-15 cm gap between them. The best place for them is in the middle of the riser. The cuts should not be made evenly, it is better when they practically converge at the edge of the product.

It is impossible to cut the holes to the end, as this can lead to the collapse of the upper part of the system. Subsidence can result in disc clamping, damage to tiles, plumbing, or cuts on your hands.

Now, by means of a wedge, the ring made can be hooked and removed. If there is no wedge, then work is carried out using a chisel or screwdriver. To do this, it is necessary to make additional cuts, only vertical in the same area.

Then, using a screwdriver, break out one piece of the product, and break the rest with a hammer. The resulting hole must be closed with a rag wedge.

Then you can proceed to the second stage of dismantling - trimming the upper part of the riser. It must be carried out taking into account the products that are planned to be installed. The remainder of the pipe must be equal in height to the molded part.

Using this data, calculations should be performed and a mark should be placed on the riser along which an incision should be made. It is carried out using a grinder or pipe cutter, trying to keep it perpendicular to the pipe.

To maintain the correct line, masking tape is used, which is applied to the product.

The following actions will require the use of physical strength and dexterity. It is necessary to press on the pipe sharply in one place. Yielding to the force of pressure, it should crack easily, since cast iron is sensitive to mechanical damage.

The success of the process depends on the distance the product is from the wall and the correct cut. The optimal gap is at least 3 cm, and the incision should be 3/4 of the total perimeter.

If the pipe runs very close to the wall, then the work is divided into several stages. After marking, you need to step back from it at a distance of 10-15 cm and pull out this piece. Then make a correct cut and remove the entire pipe in small pieces.

Installation related new system... To prepare the upper part of the pipe for installation, it is necessary to trim the cut point with a grinder with a grinding disc.

Dismantling of a cast-iron sewage system is carried out in several stages. For self-execution, you need to be able to handle electrical appliances and follow the safety instructions.

The work is considered difficult and hazardous to health, so it is better to consult a specialist.

Video: do-it-yourself replacement and repair of sewer pipes

Attention! Dismantling a cast-iron sewer riser refers to plumbing works increased complexity. Sufficient experience with the power tool and strict adherence to safety measures is required. Soberly assess your capabilities. In case of failure, you will flood your neighbors and, possibly, not at all with water, injure your hands, ruin your eyes or start a fire.

It makes sense to change the riser only when new plastic pipes will go outside your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm with the replacement of a tee or a cross located near the base of the floor, they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Required tools and materials:

Perforator;
Chisel, hammer;
Strong knife;
Small "grinder";
3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding disc;
Old chisel, Several screwdrivers of different widths, lengths and sharpness;
Safety glasses, respirator, headwear;
Steel wedge for breaking parts of cast iron pipe;
two adjustable wrenches;
a large nailer or a small crowbar to use as a lever.
Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. The use of such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive, and is rarely used on the farm.
An old iron bucket half filled with cold water;

First, it is necessary to determine in what way the cast-iron parts were connected, first of all, the tee (1) or the cross (2,3) with the socket (shaped part) of the pipe located in the lower ceiling. To do this, carefully clean the joint, usually it is above the floor level. However, if you have previously screed or tiled the floor, the joint may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case a hammer drill or chisel may be needed. Work with both a hammer drill and a chisel should be very careful so as not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the overlap.

Docking could be done with the usual caulking of the seams. cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Use an old chisel or a sharp screwdriver to pick out upper layer the seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling to get to the sealant. If it is something hard to the touch and the chisel slides along the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you drag a knife over glass, then it is very possible that you have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to dig out the sample and try to set it on fire. If the gouged out sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time produces a corrosive gas, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

Metal, but better asbestos shields to protect flammable objects from open fire;
Gas torch or blowtorch:
Several gas masks, it is better not to undertake such work alone.

Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet bowl, dismantle the pipes of the intra-apartment sewage system (if you have not already done this). If plastic water pipes (and it usually does not happen otherwise) pass next to the sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut off and restored at the end of the work.
If there are others above your apartment, then it is necessary to warn the neighbors so that during the work they do not use the sewage system. The more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do this.
Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary things that interfere with normal work. Keys to the apartment mobile phone, lighter, cigarettes can accidentally fall out of your pocket during operation and, what is most unpleasant, fall into the riser.

Work should be carried out in a respirator, headgear and goggles.

Work technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If there is no pipe cutter, make two almost horizontal cuts along the pipe perimeter with a "grinder" at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge at the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe can sag and pinch the disc, and the disc, grinder, water risers may fail, tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the notches on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable not to make the cuts to the end, so that the cut piece of the pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break off the cut out piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the hole in the pipe with a rag wedge.

2. Cutting off the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the calculated height. For subsequent installation plastic sewer you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of the upper ceiling with a height equal to the height of the shaped part that will be pressed during installation. Determine the required height, make a cut with a "grinder" (if there is no pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, you need to try to ensure that the plane of the notch is as perpendicular as possible to the pipe itself. If you stick masking tape near the cut line so that the end of the tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the pipe axis and greatly simplify the task.

Briskly, with a blow, push the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and must crack in the very bottleneck, where you did not cut the pipe with a "grinder". Here, in addition to skill, you will also need strength - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and on the distance of the pipe from the wall, the farther the pipe is from the wall, the easier it is to do this. If the pipe is cut at least three quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should be successful. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10-15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the bottom piece of the sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make an incision in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upwards, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut out sector is removed. The last piece of pipe, located near the wall, is cut "from the inside" of the pipe with a "grinder" without a protective casing.

Preparing for the installation of the upper part of the pipe... The pipe cut is trimmed with a grinder with a grinding disc and a tapered chamfer is removed along the entire perimeter.

3. Removal of the lower piece of cast-iron pipe from the socket concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design can include a cast iron revision, a coupling, an expansion pipe, etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try swinging the top of the pipe. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower bell. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you are in luck - carefully remove any loose parts. If the tee (cross) "moves" at the joint at least a little, then you can gently loosen it (her) and remove it with a crowbar or nail puller. If the tee or cross is fixed very tightly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking for swinging. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a hammer drill with a thin drill, preferably without a victorious tip. The solution in the joint is carefully hollowed out along the perimeter, the remaining solution is removed with a screwdriver or chisel. The worst option is if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) holds very tightly. In this case, you can try to clean the seam with a piece of old metal cloth. But if you feel that this does not work, and are determined to change the tee (cross), then there is only one thing to do - cut the tee (cross) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge made of rags, for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that pipe cuttings do not fall into the sewer riser. Then carefully working with the "grinder" with removed protection, maximally cut the pipe piece remaining in the socket at different angles of inclination of the disc, without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the overlap. Remove pipe residues inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removing the tee or cross if the joint is filled with gray.

The tee or the cross itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large socket of the cross or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow the working part of the blowtorch to be inserted into the pipe, and thereby ensure the required heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is placed on top of the pipe. This will allow you to regulate the draft in the riser. If there is a through holes, for example, remaining after the installation of the water supply system, then through these holes molten sulfur can enter the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, on the head of a neighbor. In order to avoid conflict situations, such holes must be sealed with gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work, in extreme cases, for very small cracks, you can use mineral wool... It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge made of non-combustible material so that as little sulfur as possible gets into the riser. It is advisable to warm up evenly and change the direction and angle of the torch as often as possible. With a sharp heating, even a whole bell can burst, if you hear a loud bang, you know you did it, although there is nothing to congratulate on. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from poor quality cast iron. Nevertheless, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work, it is recommended to drill out the sulfur fill with a drill without a victorious tip as much as possible, you can also use a drill with a long drill to relieve possible stresses. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or spill out. Sulfur quickly solidifies when it cools. It is advisable to remove hardened pieces aside, away from open fire. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur catches on fire. But remember that with strong heating, the sulfur melt can boil in a closed volume and splash out, therefore, protective goggles are necessary when working with a gas torch or blowtorch. From time to time, check the movement of the tee (cross) by swinging or hitting with a hammer from different directions. As soon as a backlash appears, stop heating and remove the tee either by swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two supplied adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the grip can break, so be careful.

If burning sulfur remains on the tee (cross), then lower the tee in an iron bucket of cold water. Clear inner part pipe socket in the lower floor from the remains of sulfur, heels, soot with an old chisel or a sharp strong knife.